Don't Waste Seafood Roe: Convert Them To a Premium Spread – Recipe
Beyond its breathtaking beaches and rugged coastline, Jersey features a exceptional food tradition, deeply rooted in its soil and sea. Starting with internationally renowned Jersey Royal baby potatoes to scallops sweeter and softer than those found anywhere else, the island's harvest is second to none. The thing that thrills many above all, however, is the way local farmers and producers are adopting sustainable agriculture, and thereby reimagining the island's food future with innovation and dedication.
Last month, I had the privilege to host a talk at an inspiring event, and prepare a welcoming meal for all participants, together with an inspiring organizer. Naturally, the shellfish had to be on the menu, since they represent the island at their best: delicate, juicy and singing of the sea.
These mollusks seem to me the perfect embodiment of the island's food future: succulent, full and regenerative by design, filtering and refreshing the water while contributing to build shoreline habitats. Both cultivated and, crucially, diver-caught, they're among the eco-friendliest seafood options to eat. However even, who were raised on Jersey, don't eat the roes – an often-seen affliction, unfortunately. All the more justification to celebrate those coral-pink tidbits, which are much too delicious to throw out. Whipped into a spread, they turn into pure indulgence: melt over the shellfish, stir into risotto or simply slather on warm slices.
Scallops may be a little pricey, however, so I've created the following recipe to transform a single scallop into an impressive appetizer (or three into a satiating main course) and, by whipping their roe into smoked spice butter and roasting the scallops in their shells with small tomatoes and garlic, potential waste turns into a luxury.
This ethos of reinvention is central to the movement, which introduced a prize providing support to food pioneers with backing, mentorship and access to a marketplace. Judged by a panel of esteemed culinary experts, the prize will be awarded at an forthcoming event. This is focused on supporting ideas that can assist our food systems thrive, across the board, and I can't think of a more exciting place for that conversation to start than Jersey.
Shellfish Roasted in Roe Butter with Small Tomatoes and Garlic
Yields 6 as a appetizer or two as a main course
Six roe-on shellfish in the shell
Eighteen small tomatoes, cut in half
Six cloves of garlic, crushed
Three whole red chillies (such as jalapeno), halved lengthwise, or 1 pinch chilli flakes, or to preference (if desired)
50 grams butter
One teaspoon paprika
Sea salt and black pepper, to liking
Lemon slices, to accompany
A little samphire, saltwort or six tiny pickle slices, to garnish (optional)
Prepare the shellfish, removing the eggs from each and leaving the rest of the shellfish fixed to the shell (ask the fishmonger to handle this for you, if necessary). Place 6 cherry tomato halves in every half-shell with a clove's worth of crushed garlic cloves and one half a chili pepper, if added.
Put the eggs in a container of a hand blender (many prefer it's the most effective tool for mixing tiny quantities), include the spread and spice, and blitz until creamy. Divide the mixture among the shells, making sure each shellfish is well covered in the butter.
Heat the broiler until it's scorching hot, then place the scallops beneath the flame for 6-8 minutes, until blistered and sizzling. Serve immediately, garnished with optional sea vegetables, herbs, a slice of pickle and/or a splash of the pickle juice or a bit of lemon.